On Board – June 17, 2024

  • Peniche – Baleal Surf Camp Day #1
  • Weather: 60-65°/ overcast, windy; light rain after class

9:00am class: Practice pop ups on the beach (pushing up with “chicken arms,” bring back foot on board, bring front foot on board). I surprise myself by riding on the board a few times.

2:00pm class: Practice pop ups on beach (MODIFIED: pushing up with “chicken arms,” bring back knee on board, bring front foot on board, stand on back foot). The class went to the other side of the peninsula as there were fewer people and different wave conditions but the more threatening shore wind could easily slam the board into your body. I had a few rides. One wave with the most tremendous force lifted and propelled my board all the way to shore. Albeit I road lying flat on my stomach and never had the opportunity to stand. Could this powerful wave be the type surfers catch and amazingly ride zigzagging in the curl?

As the day was windy, overcast, and 65 degrees I felt myself get colder and my energy level falling. I stopped class early and assistant Thomas carried my board back to Baleal Surf Camp while I ran trying to generate heat. Had I wimped out or was I listening to my body say tired bodies become accident prone? Making the right decision isn’t the most compatible with the ego.

Parade of surfers heading to the other side of the peninsula.
“Into the breach.”
The surf board nose into the surf or the wind will slam the board into your body.
Rosie from Yorkshire.

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