Author: Linda

Boat Tour –  March 21, 2025 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 6 / Kumanogawa Town to Hayatama-Taisha Shrine by boat
  • Distance:  9 mi 
  • Total mileage:  65.2 miles
  • Time: 1h 30m
  • Weather: 40-60°  /  sunny & winds 10-15 mph 

OVERVIEW 

  1. DRIVE:  45m from Totsukawa to Kumanogawa Town
  2. BOAT:  1h 30m Kumano River Boat Tour from Kumanogawa Town to Hayatama-Taisha Shrine
  3. ROUTE: Kumano-gawa River
  4. BUS: 30m from Hayatama-Taisha Shrine to Kumanogawa Town
  5. DRIVE: 45m from Kumanogawa Town to Tamaki Shrine (Saburo’s great grandfather and grandfather’s gift)
  6. TOUR: Tamaki family shrine
  7. DRIVE: 30m from Tamaki Shrine to Totsukawa
  8. TOUR: Walk from Namiyo & Saburo’s home to Totsukawa community shrine 
  9. SLEEP: Namiyo & Saburo’s home 

A thousand years ago only emperors traveled to Hayatama-Taisha Shrine by boat. Now it’s a VISA opportunity for all. 

Like ancient times, wooden boats. I doubt emperors wore fluorescent orange life vests though maybe they wore the conical hats.
I wonder why the rivers are green.
Kumano-gawa River
Our guide sweetly played a wooden flute.

Road Building –  March 20, 2025 

  • REST DAY
  • Location: Totsukawa
  • Weather: 34-50° / blue skies

Totsukawa is having a new road constructed. Road work must include stabilizing the mountain and is typical for Japan. 

Many time I have written how vertical are the Japanese mountains. Banks of concrete are applied to stabilize the mountains.
Concrete road wall.
Concrete road wall.
Concrete road wall.

Equinox –  March 20, 2025 

  • REST DAY
  • Location: Totsukawa 
  • Weather: 34-50° / blue skies 

Vernal equinox is a special day in Japan for visiting family. 

We visit Saburo’s second cousin living a 10 minute walk from his house. Her 100 year old home has amazing wood work. Space heaters warm individual rooms. The gray table skirt is a cozy warm electric blanket.
Totsukawa is on a Kumano Kodo route. Saburo’s second cousin keeps a rest space for pilgrims. It’s most welcoming with day beds and literature.
Namiyo teaches me how to make sushi which we will serve for dinner when Saburo’s brother Morito visits.
Morito gifted me a beautiful Nara piece of pottery.

Raw Celebrate –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Celebrate walking the Kumano Sanzan with raw fish, sushi. Incredibly delicious. I’ve learned not to ask what I am eating until I’ve cleaned my plate…eel.  Now home to watch the LA Dodgers play Chicago Cubs at Tokyo Dome on TV. So Japanese.

8 pieces of sushi
Best to eat sushi at bar facing cooks.
Sushi Restaurant
Unagi Sushi…eel. Most delicious.

500 Steps –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Climbing 500 brutally steep and irregular shaped stone steps to hopefully our last shrine of the day has mustard all my willpower. 

Step by step…
Saburo and Namiyo step by step…
Shrine at base of “frog” bolder with rope.
View from 500 steps.

Trio Done –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Having walked 55 arduous miles, we have arrived at our last Kumano Sanzan, the trio of the three great Kumano shrines. 

Entrance Gate
Hayatama-Taish Shrine
Bell Pull
Bell

Pacific Ocean –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & win

These aren’t the California surfing waves of the Pacific Ocean. Surfing season is typhoon season August to October. 

Pacific Ocean
Pacific Ocean
Walking on beach.
Not found on Pacific Ocean but totally irresistible.

Whale Watchers –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’ Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Whale watchers from this look out point sent smoke signals immediately after detecting a whale to inform people on the beach and fleet where the whales were. Can you imagine traditionally people got in the water to harpoon whales?

Whale Watching Lookout Point
Harpoonist in water!
Whale Lookout
Today no whales.

Bullet  Dodged –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

OVERVIEW 

  1. Train: 10 minutes from Nachikatsuura to start of Kumano Kodo trail by ocean
  2. Walk: 13 miles / 8h 30m to Hayatama-Taish Shrine 
  3. Bus: 30 minutes Hayatama-Taish Shrine to Hongu-taisha (pick-up car)
  4. Drive: 30 minutes from Hongu-Taisha Shrine to Totsukawa

Bullet dodged as the mountain pass we crossed yesterday is now snow covered. Fortunately much of today’s walk is at sea level yet wind gusts of 40mph present a hardship. 

Mountain pass on horizon snow covered.
Temizuya, water pavilion for purifying mind and body.
Temizuya
Temizuya