Certified –  March 21, 2025 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 6 / Kumanogawa Town to Hayatama-Taisha Shrine by boat
  • Distance:  9 mi 
  • Total mileage:  65.2 miles
  • Time: 1h 30m
  • Weather: 40-60°  /  sunny & winds 10-15 mph 

We earned a dual certificate for walking the Kumano Kodo and the Santiago de Compostelle Camino. 

Dual certificate!
Buddhist monk allowed us to play the temple drum as part of our recognition for walking both caminos.
Picnic by Japan’s largest temple gate.
Tree flower.

Boat Tour –  March 21, 2025 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 6 / Kumanogawa Town to Hayatama-Taisha Shrine by boat
  • Distance:  9 mi 
  • Total mileage:  65.2 miles
  • Time: 1h 30m
  • Weather: 40-60°  /  sunny & winds 10-15 mph 

OVERVIEW 

  1. DRIVE:  45m from Totsukawa to Kumanogawa Town
  2. BOAT:  1h 30m Kumano River Boat Tour from Kumanogawa Town to Hayatama-Taisha Shrine
  3. ROUTE: Kumano-gawa River
  4. BUS: 30m from Hayatama-Taisha Shrine to Kumanogawa Town
  5. DRIVE: 45m from Kumanogawa Town to Tamaki Shrine (Saburo’s great grandfather and grandfather’s gift)
  6. TOUR: Tamaki family shrine
  7. DRIVE: 30m from Tamaki Shrine to Totsukawa
  8. TOUR: Walk from Namiyo & Saburo’s home to Totsukawa community shrine 
  9. SLEEP: Namiyo & Saburo’s home 

A thousand years ago only emperors traveled to Hayatama-Taisha Shrine by boat. Now it’s a VISA opportunity for all. 

Like ancient times, wooden boats. I doubt emperors wore fluorescent orange life vests though maybe they wore the conical hats.
I wonder why the rivers are green.
Kumano-gawa River
Our guide sweetly played a wooden flute.

Road Building –  March 20, 2025 

  • REST DAY
  • Location: Totsukawa
  • Weather: 34-50° / blue skies

Totsukawa is having a new road constructed. Road work must include stabilizing the mountain and is typical for Japan. 

Many time I have written how vertical are the Japanese mountains. Banks of concrete are applied to stabilize the mountains.
Concrete road wall.
Concrete road wall.
Concrete road wall.

Equinox –  March 20, 2025 

  • REST DAY
  • Location: Totsukawa 
  • Weather: 34-50° / blue skies 

Vernal equinox is a special day in Japan for visiting family. 

We visit Saburo’s second cousin living a 10 minute walk from his house. Her 100 year old home has amazing wood work. Space heaters warm individual rooms. The gray table skirt is a cozy warm electric blanket.
Totsukawa is on a Kumano Kodo route. Saburo’s second cousin keeps a rest space for pilgrims. It’s most welcoming with day beds and literature.
Namiyo teaches me how to make sushi which we will serve for dinner when Saburo’s brother Morito visits.
Morito gifted me a beautiful Nara piece of pottery.

Raw Celebrate –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Celebrate walking the Kumano Sanzan with raw fish, sushi. Incredibly delicious. I’ve learned not to ask what I am eating until I’ve cleaned my plate…eel.  Now home to watch the LA Dodgers play Chicago Cubs at Tokyo Dome on TV. So Japanese.

8 pieces of sushi
Best to eat sushi at bar facing cooks.
Sushi Restaurant
Unagi Sushi…eel. Most delicious.

500 Steps –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Climbing 500 brutally steep and irregular shaped stone steps to hopefully our last shrine of the day has mustard all my willpower. 

Step by step…
Saburo and Namiyo step by step…
Shrine at base of “frog” bolder with rope.
View from 500 steps.

Trio Done –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Having walked 55 arduous miles, we have arrived at our last Kumano Sanzan, the trio of the three great Kumano shrines. 

Entrance Gate
Hayatama-Taish Shrine
Bell Pull
Bell

Pacific Ocean –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & win

These aren’t the California surfing waves of the Pacific Ocean. Surfing season is typhoon season August to October. 

Pacific Ocean
Pacific Ocean
Walking on beach.
Not found on Pacific Ocean but totally irresistible.