Author: Linda

Kumano Kodo –  March 16, 2025

  • KumanoKodo: Day 2 / Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine
  • Distance: 12.5mi 
  • Total mileage:  23.8 miles
  • Ascent:  2,117’ /Descent: 3,532’
  • Time: 7h (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-50° /  light rain and wind

OVERVIEW 

  1. Walk from Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine 
  2. Retreave car from shrine parking lot 
  3. Drive to Totsukawa
  4. Sleep at Namiyo and Saburo’s home

The conditions of the Kumano Kudo trails are outstanding. Pristine clear trails never blocked by downed trees or branches. Every water crossing had a bridge. Well signed including sequential numbering posted every 3/10th of a mile. Plentiful clean flush toilets completely with toilet paper. All this care yet I never saw any trail maintenance. 

Bridge
Elaborate stone support for bridge.
Pristine trails…never any human trash.
Even porta-potties had water (not chemical) flush toilets. Hand washing station included.

Satin’s Ascent –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ / Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain 

The walk started with a two hour brutal 1,000’ ascent in less than a mile.  I am reminded of a quote by George Ticknor, “The ascent of this steep, savage, hill was as pensive and slow as Satin’s ascent to paradise.”

Savage hills.
Saburo walks with umbrella while Namiyo and I use walking poles.
Saburo and Linda climbing.
Saburo uses camp stove to cook dehydrated packets of curried rice for lunch. Totally unexpected!

Kumano Kodo –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ / Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain in afternoon

Kumano Kodo is a network of pilgrim trails to the three grand temples of Kumano Sanzan. Over a thousand years ago the Nakahechi Route became popular by the imperial family. Retired emperors walked the month long pilgrimage with the belief it acquired merit for their afterlife. In time Nakahechi Route was also called the Imperial Route. Today we begin our walk on Imperial Route to our first grand temple of Kumano Sanzan. 

Saburo and Namiyo at minor shrine.
Jizo statues are made of stone and are said to have spiritual powers for protection and longevity. They predate Buddhist beliefs.
Dressing up Jizo may be related to acquiring merit for afterlife. Red is believed to have the power to expel evil.

Three Legged Crow –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ /Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain and wind in afternoon

OVERVIEW 

  1. Drive from Totsukawa to Hongu Taisha Shrine 
  2. Park at shrine
  3. Bus from shrine to Takijiri-Oji 
  4. Walk: Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  5. Sleep at Nonaka 

Kumano Kodo started about 660BC with legendary Emperor Jimmu who was the descendant of a sun goddess. While on his way to Yamato (present day Nara and first capital of Japan), he was guided over mountains by a mythical three-legged crow sent from heaven to discover Nachi Falls.  Nachi Falls became the home for one of the three grand shrines collectively known as Kumano Sanzan. 

Three legged crow.
Temple gates separate the secular from sacred world. Bow before and after entering.
Kumano Hongu Taisha.
One of three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan.

Burning Torches – March 13, 2025

  • Nara
  • Weather:  60’s°, overcast 

Serendipitously my first night in Nara coincides with Nigatsudo Hall’s annual fire touch procession.  Ten 25 feet long torches are carried to the temple’s balcony and held over the crowd’s head allowing  the burning embers to shower upon the onlookers. Omizutori is a 1250 year ritual and one of the oldest reoccurring Buddhist events in Japan. 

Torch carried up steps to Nigatsudo Hall.
Torch carried across the balcony.
Torch held off balcony.

The burning embers are thought to bestow onlookers with a safe year. (Oxymoron?)

Nara Deer – March 13, 2025

  • Nara
  • Weather:  60’s°, overcast 

Part of Nara’s experience is to hand feed crackers to their famous deer. As conditioned as any B.F. Skinner’s laboratory animals, these deer aggressively approach people for food.

Can you believe a Virginian is actually hand feeding a deer?
“Come and get it!”
Nara Deer digesting crackers. These are the fastest deer I’ve ever seen.
Nara Deer

Todaiji Temple –  March 13, 2025

  • Nara
  • Weather:  60’s°, overcast 

It’s hard to imagine the 1692 reconstructed Todaiji Temple is two thirds its original size. Until recently it held the record for the world’s largest wooden building. One of Japan’s largest Buddha bronze statue is housed in the temple. 

Todaiji Temple with ant size people approaching on the steps.
Buddha
Saburo and Namiyo Tamaki met 2015 on the Camino in Spain.
Buddha