Category: Kumano Kodo

• Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
• Distance:  13 mi 
• Total mileage:  56.2 miles
• Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
• Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
• Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

OVERVIEW 

1. Train: 10 minutes from Nachikatsuura to start of Kumano Kodo trail by ocean
2. Walk: 13 miles / 8h 30m to Hayatama-Taish Shrine 
3. Bus: 30 minutes Hayatama-Taish Shrine to Hongu-taisha (pick-up car)
4. Drive: 30 minutes from Hongu-Taisha Shrine to Totsukawa

Bullet dodged as the mountain pass we crossed yesterday is now snow covered. Fortunately much of today’s walk is at sea level yet wind gusts of 40mph present a hardship. 

• Kumano Kodo: Day 4 / Koguchi to Nachi-taisha Shrine
• Distance:  8.2 mi  Total mileage:  43.2 miles
• Ascent:  3,670’ / Descent: 3,532’
• Time: 8h 40m (moving 7h)
• Weather: 35-53°  /  frost alert, partly sunny & winds 7-10mph

It has been said as pilgrims descend from Funami-toge Pass, they may see a figure coming towards them. As the figure approaches the pilgrim recognizes it as a deceased friend or relative. When the pilgrim begins to speak, the figure vanishes. Namiyo hopes she will meet her father. 

• Kumano Kodo: Day 4 / Koguchi to Nachi-taisha Shrine
• Distance:  8.2 mi 
• Total mileage:  43.2 miles
• Ascent:  3,670’ / Descent: 3,532’
• Time: 8h 40m (moving 7h)
• Weather: 35-53°  /  frost alert, partly sunny & winds 7-10mph

OVERVIEW 

1. Walk Koguchi to  Nachi-Taisha Shrine  
2. Bus from Nachi-taisha Shrine to Nachikatsuura
3. Sleep at Nachikatsuura Guest House

In 1201 the famous poet Fujiware Teika wrote in his diary, “This route is very rough and difficult; it is impossible to describe precisely how tough it is.”  I couldn’t express it better. 

• Kumano Kodo: Day 3 /Hongu Taisha Shrine to Koguchi
• Distance: 8.2 mi 
• Total mileage:  32 miles Ascent:  1,797’ / Descent: 1,804’
• Time: 5h 30m (moving 4h 15m)
• Weather: 35-50° /  partly sunny & winds 10-20mph

This Japanese woman epitomized the friendliness and manners of its people. Even masked her eyes dances with joy. I had to bow to my knees to show her more respect than what she showed me. 

• Kumano Kodo: Day 3 /Hongu Taisha Shrine to Koguchi
• Distance: 8.2 mi 
• Total mileage:  32 miles
• Ascent:  1,797’ / Descent: 1,804’
• Time: 5h 30m (moving 4h 15m)
• Weather: 35-50° /  partly sunny & winds 10-20mph

On the Camino Santiago there’s always 7 pilgrims in front of you. Pass those 7 and you have 7 pilgrims behind you and a new 7 pilgrims in front of you. We may see 3 dozen people a day walking the Kumano Kodo. They are never in our eye sight for more than 5 minutes until one of us is gone. 

• Kumano Kodo: Day 3 /Hongu Taisha Shrine to Koguchi
• Distance: 8.2 mi 
• Total mileage:  32 miles
• Ascent:  1,797’ / Descent: 1,804’
• Time: 5h 30m (moving 4h 15m)
• Weather: 35-50° /  partly sunny & winds 10-20mph

OVERVIEW 

1. Drive 30 minutes from Namiyo and Saburo’s home in Totsukawa  
2. Park car at Hongu Shrine
3. Walk from Hongu Shrine to Koguchi 
4. Sleep at Koguchi

 I quickly remember why I enjoyed walking the Camino with Namiyo and Saburo. They walk in silence. For me, conversation disturbs nature’s beauty. 

• KumanoKodo: Day 2 / Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine
• Distance: 12.5mi 
• Total mileage:  23.8 miles
• Ascent:  2,117’ /Descent: 3,532’
• Time: 7h (moving 6h)
• Weather: 45-50° /  light rain and wind

It is hard to photograph the beauty of walking Kumano Kudo. The immensely straight and immensely tall cypress and cedar forest seem always at hands reach. The mountain slopes range 45-80°. Slip off the trail and you may easily roll out of sight and simply be gone.

• KumanoKodo: Day 2 / Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine
• Distance: 12.5mi 
• Total mileage:  23.8 miles
• Ascent:  2,117’ /Descent: 3,532’
• Time: 7h (moving 6h)
• Weather: 45-50° /  light rain and wind

There are hundreds of minor temples supporting Kumano Sanzan, the three major temples. At each temple is a passport stamp station to document your visit. This entitles you for a Kumano Kodo certificate. It’s similarly to the Santiago de Compostelle Camino passport and certificate system. 

• KumanoKodo: Day 2 / Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine
• Distance: 12.5mi 
• Total mileage:  23.8 miles
• Ascent:  2,117’ /Descent: 3,532’
• Time: 7h (moving 6h)
• Weather: 45-50° /  light rain and wind

OVERVIEW 

1. Walk from Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine 
2. Retreave car from shrine parking lot 
3. Drive to Totsukawa
4. Sleep at Namiyo and Saburo’s home

The conditions of the Kumano Kudo trails are outstanding. Pristine clear trails never blocked by downed trees or branches. Every water crossing had a bridge. Well signed including sequential numbering posted every 3/10th of a mile. Plentiful clean flush toilets completely with toilet paper. All this care yet I never saw any trail maintenance.