Satin’s Ascent –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ / Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain 

The walk started with a two hour brutal 1,000’ ascent in less than a mile.  I am reminded of a quote by George Ticknor, “The ascent of this steep, savage, hill was as pensive and slow as Satin’s ascent to paradise.”

Savage hills.
Saburo walks with umbrella while Namiyo and I use walking poles.
Saburo and Linda climbing.
Saburo uses camp stove to cook dehydrated packets of curried rice for lunch. Totally unexpected!

Kumano Kodo –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ / Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain in afternoon

Kumano Kodo is a network of pilgrim trails to the three grand temples of Kumano Sanzan. Over a thousand years ago the Nakahechi Route became popular by the imperial family. Retired emperors walked the month long pilgrimage with the belief it acquired merit for their afterlife. In time Nakahechi Route was also called the Imperial Route. Today we begin our walk on Imperial Route to our first grand temple of Kumano Sanzan. 

Saburo and Namiyo at minor shrine.
Jizo statues are made of stone and are said to have spiritual powers for protection and longevity. They predate Buddhist beliefs.
Dressing up Jizo may be related to acquiring merit for afterlife. Red is believed to have the power to expel evil.

Three Legged Crow –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ /Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain and wind in afternoon

OVERVIEW 

  1. Drive from Totsukawa to Hongu Taisha Shrine 
  2. Park at shrine
  3. Bus from shrine to Takijiri-Oji 
  4. Walk: Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  5. Sleep at Nonaka 

Kumano Kodo started about 660BC with legendary Emperor Jimmu who was the descendant of a sun goddess. While on his way to Yamato (present day Nara and first capital of Japan), he was guided over mountains by a mythical three-legged crow sent from heaven to discover Nachi Falls.  Nachi Falls became the home for one of the three grand shrines collectively known as Kumano Sanzan. 

Three legged crow.
Temple gates separate the secular from sacred world. Bow before and after entering.
Kumano Hongu Taisha.
One of three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan.