Category: Caminos

Kumano Kodo –  March 16, 2025

  • KumanoKodo: Day 2 / Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine
  • Distance: 12.5mi 
  • Total mileage:  23.8 miles
  • Ascent:  2,117’ /Descent: 3,532’
  • Time: 7h (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-50° /  light rain and wind

OVERVIEW 

  1. Walk from Nonaka to Hongu Taisha Shrine 
  2. Retreave car from shrine parking lot 
  3. Drive to Totsukawa
  4. Sleep at Namiyo and Saburo’s home

The conditions of the Kumano Kudo trails are outstanding. Pristine clear trails never blocked by downed trees or branches. Every water crossing had a bridge. Well signed including sequential numbering posted every 3/10th of a mile. Plentiful clean flush toilets completely with toilet paper. All this care yet I never saw any trail maintenance. 

Bridge
Elaborate stone support for bridge.
Pristine trails…never any human trash.
Even porta-potties had water (not chemical) flush toilets. Hand washing station included.

Satin’s Ascent –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ / Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain 

The walk started with a two hour brutal 1,000’ ascent in less than a mile.  I am reminded of a quote by George Ticknor, “The ascent of this steep, savage, hill was as pensive and slow as Satin’s ascent to paradise.”

Savage hills.
Saburo walks with umbrella while Namiyo and I use walking poles.
Saburo and Linda climbing.
Saburo uses camp stove to cook dehydrated packets of curried rice for lunch. Totally unexpected!

Kumano Kodo –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ / Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain in afternoon

Kumano Kodo is a network of pilgrim trails to the three grand temples of Kumano Sanzan. Over a thousand years ago the Nakahechi Route became popular by the imperial family. Retired emperors walked the month long pilgrimage with the belief it acquired merit for their afterlife. In time Nakahechi Route was also called the Imperial Route. Today we begin our walk on Imperial Route to our first grand temple of Kumano Sanzan. 

Saburo and Namiyo at minor shrine.
Jizo statues are made of stone and are said to have spiritual powers for protection and longevity. They predate Buddhist beliefs.
Dressing up Jizo may be related to acquiring merit for afterlife. Red is believed to have the power to expel evil.

Three Legged Crow –  March 15, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 1 / Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  • Distance: 11.3mi 
  • Total mileage:  11.3 miles
  • Ascent:  3,410’ /Descent: 2,136’
  • Time: 7h 40m (moving 6h)
  • Weather: 45-55° /  light rain and wind in afternoon

OVERVIEW 

  1. Drive from Totsukawa to Hongu Taisha Shrine 
  2. Park at shrine
  3. Bus from shrine to Takijiri-Oji 
  4. Walk: Takijiri-Oji to Nonaka
  5. Sleep at Nonaka 

Kumano Kodo started about 660BC with legendary Emperor Jimmu who was the descendant of a sun goddess. While on his way to Yamato (present day Nara and first capital of Japan), he was guided over mountains by a mythical three-legged crow sent from heaven to discover Nachi Falls.  Nachi Falls became the home for one of the three grand shrines collectively known as Kumano Sanzan. 

Three legged crow.
Temple gates separate the secular from sacred world. Bow before and after entering.
Kumano Hongu Taisha.
One of three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan.

Conclusion – June 13, 2024

  • Francès ~ Podiensis Camino – #31 Livinhac-le-Haut / Figeac
  • Distance: 16 miles / Total 409.3 miles
  • Ascent: 1,343’ / Descent: 1,378’
  • Time: 7 hours 30 minutes
  • Weather: 60-75°/ blue sky with white clouds

Today’s the less dramatic scenery serves as a calm conclusion for my Camino.

Never enough cows at their 10:00am repose.
The Camino, the Way.
Less drama in the scenery. Walking through miles of wheat with a backdrop of low mountains.
Returning of the Lot River to cross into Figeac.
What a brilliant way to end a way. Crossing the bridge into Figeac I hear my name called. The two French students in medicine and law have shared the walk and many Gîtes with me. They too have come to the end of their Camino.

Lakes – June 13, 2024

  • Francès ~ Podiensis Camino – #31 Livinhac-le-Haut / Figeac
  • Distance: 16 miles / Total 409.3 miles
  • Ascent: 1,343’ / Descent: 1,378’
  • Time: 7 hours 30 minutes
  • Weather: 60-75°/ blue sky with white clouds

The trail narrowed dividing a lake in two sections. With water on the left and right, it was like walking on water.

Lake.
Lake. Water so still.
Fisherman.
I can’t get enough of blue skies.

Wind – June 12, 2024

  • Francès ~ Podiensis Camino – #30 Conques / Livinhac-le-Haut
  • Distance: 14.9 miles / Total 393.3 miles
  • Ascent: 2,273’ / Descent: 2.567’
  • Time: 8 hours 15 minutes
  • Weather: 60-70°/ blue sky with white clouds

May the wind always be at your back…an Irish blessings.

Photographer Sakam Shiro.
Like clockwork, the cows recline at 10am.
Daisies in the wind.
Photographer Sakam Shiro.

Lines – June 12, 2024

  • Francès ~ Podiensis Camino – #30 Conques / Livinhac-le-Haut
  • Distance: 14.9 miles / Total 393.3 miles
  • Ascent: 2,273’ / Descent: 2.567’
  • Time: 8 hours 15 minutes
  • Weather: 60-70°/ blue sky with white clouds

Lines made by pilgrims.

Line of pilgrims reading same mass passage in Italian, English, French, Swiss German, and Japanese at Abbaye de Sainte-Foy.
Line of walking poles at Abbaye de Sainte-Foy.
Line of pilgrims shoes at Abbaye de Sainte-Foy.
Sitting in line with coffee and shoes off.

Bits – June 12, 2024

  • Francès ~ Podiensis Camino – #30 Conques / Livinhac-le-Haut
  • Distance: 14.9 miles / Total 393.3 miles
  • Ascent: 2,273’ / Descent: 2.567’ Time: 8 hours 15 minutes
  • Weather: 60-70°/ blue sky with white clouds

Bits of the day. Close to the last bits of the walk.

Vibrant.
Everywhere memorials to WWI which tour over WWII memorials. More deaths in WWI.
Memorial to pilgrims…clothes line.
Today’s Gîte captured the Camino spirit… welcoming flavored water with conversation (when all I want is a shower), group pre-dinner wine social, group dinner featuring everyone’s prior Caminos, finished with highlights of tomorrow’s walk.j. The host personally said, “Bon chemin” to each pilgrim as we departed.