Raw Celebrate –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Celebrate walking the Kumano Sanzan with raw fish, sushi. Incredibly delicious. I’ve learned not to ask what I am eating until I’ve cleaned my plate…eel.  Now home to watch the LA Dodgers play Chicago Cubs at Tokyo Dome on TV. So Japanese.

8 pieces of sushi
Best to eat sushi at bar facing cooks.
Sushi Restaurant
Unagi Sushi…eel. Most delicious.

500 Steps –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Climbing 500 brutally steep and irregular shaped stone steps to hopefully our last shrine of the day has mustard all my willpower. 

Step by step…
Saburo and Namiyo step by step…
Shrine at base of “frog” bolder with rope.
View from 500 steps.

Trio Done –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Having walked 55 arduous miles, we have arrived at our last Kumano Sanzan, the trio of the three great Kumano shrines. 

Entrance Gate
Hayatama-Taish Shrine
Bell Pull
Bell

Pacific Ocean –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & win

These aren’t the California surfing waves of the Pacific Ocean. Surfing season is typhoon season August to October. 

Pacific Ocean
Pacific Ocean
Walking on beach.
Not found on Pacific Ocean but totally irresistible.

Whale Watchers –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’ Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

Whale watchers from this look out point sent smoke signals immediately after detecting a whale to inform people on the beach and fleet where the whales were. Can you imagine traditionally people got in the water to harpoon whales?

Whale Watching Lookout Point
Harpoonist in water!
Whale Lookout
Today no whales.

Bullet  Dodged –  March 19, 2025 / Namiyo’s Birthday 

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 5 / Nachikatsuura to Hayatama-Taish Shrine
  • Distance:  13 mi 
  • Total mileage:  56.2 miles
  • Ascent:  764’ / Descent: 756’
  • Time: 8h 30m (moving 6h 10m)
  • Weather: 30-50°  /  sunny & winds 20-30 mph with gusts over 40mph

OVERVIEW 

  1. Train: 10 minutes from Nachikatsuura to start of Kumano Kodo trail by ocean
  2. Walk: 13 miles / 8h 30m to Hayatama-Taish Shrine 
  3. Bus: 30 minutes Hayatama-Taish Shrine to Hongu-taisha (pick-up car)
  4. Drive: 30 minutes from Hongu-Taisha Shrine to Totsukawa

Bullet dodged as the mountain pass we crossed yesterday is now snow covered. Fortunately much of today’s walk is at sea level yet wind gusts of 40mph present a hardship. 

Mountain pass on horizon snow covered.
Temizuya, water pavilion for purifying mind and body.
Temizuya
Temizuya

Meeting the Departed –  March 18, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 4 / Koguchi to Nachi-taisha Shrine
  • Distance:  8.2 mi  Total mileage:  43.2 miles
  • Ascent:  3,670’ / Descent: 3,532’
  • Time: 8h 40m (moving 7h)
  • Weather: 35-53°  /  frost alert, partly sunny & winds 7-10mph

It has been said as pilgrims descend from Funami-toge Pass, they may see a figure coming towards them. As the figure approaches the pilgrim recognizes it as a deceased friend or relative. When the pilgrim begins to speak, the figure vanishes. Namiyo hopes she will meet her father. 

Nachi-Taisha Shrine
Tallest waterfalls in Japan. It is here to the three legged crow led Japan’s first emperor.
Nachi-Taisha Shrine
First cherry blossoms!

Impossible to Describe –  March 18, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 4 / Koguchi to Nachi-taisha Shrine
  • Distance:  8.2 mi 
  • Total mileage:  43.2 miles
  • Ascent:  3,670’ / Descent: 3,532’
  • Time: 8h 40m (moving 7h)
  • Weather: 35-53°  /  frost alert, partly sunny & winds 7-10mph

OVERVIEW 

  1. Walk Koguchi to  Nachi-Taisha Shrine  
  2. Bus from Nachi-taisha Shrine to Nachikatsuura
  3. Sleep at Nachikatsuura Guest House

In 1201 the famous poet Fujiware Teika wrote in his diary, “This route is very rough and difficult; it is impossible to describe precisely how tough it is.”  I couldn’t express it better. 

Saburo on the Kamano Kodo.
Descent or ascent but never walk on flat trails.
Pacific Ocean
Pacific Ocean

Japanese Woman –  March 17, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 3 /Hongu Taisha Shrine to Koguchi
  • Distance: 8.2 mi 
  • Total mileage:  32 miles Ascent:  1,797’ / Descent: 1,804’
  • Time: 5h 30m (moving 4h 15m)
  • Weather: 35-50° /  partly sunny & winds 10-20mph

This Japanese woman epitomized the friendliness and manners of its people. Even masked her eyes dances with joy. I had to bow to my knees to show her more respect than what she showed me. 

Eyes that dance with joy.
Eyes that dance with joy.
Eyes that almost dance with joy.
Jizo with eyes for children and traverses.

Wishful Thinking–  March 17, 2025

  • Kumano Kodo: Day 3 /Hongu Taisha Shrine to Koguchi
  • Distance: 8.2 mi 
  • Total mileage:  32 miles
  • Ascent:  1,797’ / Descent: 1,804’
  • Time: 5h 30m (moving 4h 15m)
  • Weather: 35-50° /  partly sunny & winds 10-20mph

Today’s clearer skies reveal Kumano Kodo’s mountains. I thought I was finally getting stronger walking legs until I discovered the mileage, ascent, and time were a fraction of the past days. Wishful thinking has thoughts of lower mountains, stronger legs.

Statuary from Temizuya, water purifying station before entering temple.
Looks familiar?
Magnificent views require strong legs.