Juggle – June 17, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 18/ Caldas de Reis to Patrón
  • Distance: 11.9 miles / Total 219.2 miles
  • Ascent: 934’ / Descent: 950’
  • Time: 5 hours 45 minutes
  • Weather: 66- 78 degrees / overcast becoming blue skies with clouds

My mind juggles between vague memories and outstandingly unforgettable memories from Camino 2022. Those special memories center around people and continue to bring joy.

Last October I was walking before sunrise in the rain. My headlight happened to catch a sign for this café. It was a port in a storm.
Her coffee, butter and jam toast were as good as I remember.
It is said St James began his preaching at this very spot in Patroń. After death his body returned to Patroń on its way to Santiago.
Patroń Cathedral.
Under the alter is the stone which is said to have been used to anchor St James’ boat on his return to Patroń.
Another celebration with Netherlands women.

Solitude – June 17, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 18/ Caldas de Reis to Patrón
  • Distance: 11.9 miles / Total 219.2 miles
  • Ascent: 934’ / Descent: 950’
  • Time: 5 hours 45 minutes
  • Weather: 66- 78 degrees / overcast becoming blue skies with clouds

Solitude seems illusive. The sounds and motion of many more pilgrims are a constant distraction.

New Variety
More and more pilgrims with daypacks.
Rio Ulla was used to sail St James’s body to Patron then his body was carried by land to Santiago.
Again My Favorite

Caldas de Reis – June 16, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 17/ Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
  • Distance: 13.6 miles / Total 207.3 miles
  • Ascent: 808’ / Descent: 778’
  • Time: 7 hours 15 minutes
  • Weather: 62- 80 degrees / blue skies
Church entering Caldas de Reis.

Caldas de Reis with its charm…

Caldas de Reis’s rivers.
Cascading Trumpet Flowers
Up close and personal with a yellow flower.

In Nature – June 16, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 17/ Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
  • Distance: 13.6 miles / Total 207.3 miles
  • Ascent: 808’ / Descent: 778’
  • Time: 7 hours 15 minutes
  • Weather: 62- 80 degrees / blue skies

Another day mostly spent walking through nature. With less than 100km to Santiago, pilgrims are usually within sight but all have ample private space.

Quietly slipping out of Pontevedra at dawn.
Pilgrims are increasing.
I’m easily captivated by the flowers.
Nature’s work in art.
Fields of mixed corn and grapes are common.
Roses thrive in gardens.

Flex Days – June 15, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 16/ Redondela to Pontevedra
  • Distance: 13.7 miles / Total 193.7 miles
  • Ascent: 1,392’ / Descent: 1,352’
  • Time: 5 hours
  • Weather: 62- 82 degrees / blue skies

Without wiggle room at the end, I can’t take the Spiritual Route deviation including a stay at a Monastery and a boat excursion. The boat ride is along the same water passage St. James’ body was transported. Lesson learned…add flex days to travel plans.

Siobhan takes the Spiritual Route.
Beautiful Walk
Arched Stone Bridge.

Walk takes you past the yellow house on the hill.

Crossing smaller stoned bridge.

Bells – June 14, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 15 / O Porriño to Redondela
  • Distance: 9.7 miles / Total 180 miles
  • Ascent: 904’ / Descent: 997’
  • Time: 4 hours 30 minutes
  • Weather: 65 – 75 degrees / blue skies with white clouds

The backdrop of Portuguese church bells is missing. Melodies mark the hour and striking of the bell mark the half hour. On Sunday mornings, bells ring incessantly.

Coming off the mountain to Redondela where Coastal and Central routes merge.
At the Window
Future Spanish Wine
The incessant plop, plop of my shoes.

Quickly Slipping – June 14, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 15 / O Porriño to Redondela
  • Distance: 9.7 miles / Total 180 miles
  • Ascent: 904’ / Descent: 997’
  • Time: 4 hours 30 minutes
  • Weather: 65 – 75 degrees / blue skies with white clouds

The sand is quickly slipping through the hour glass. Soon the arrival of Santiago will be here. For now the silence of the day and the reunion of faces brings the greatest joy. The jubilance of Santiago is four days away.

Return of pre-dawn starts to avoid the mid-day sun.
Return of nature paths.
Return of familiar faces. Midwifery is the topic.
Return of silence, my favorite topic.
Return of wildflowers.

Another Day – June 13, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 14 / Tui to Porriño
  • Distance: 11 miles / Total 170.3 miles
  • Ascent: 772’ / Descent: 740’
  • Time: 4 hours 45 minutes
  • Weather: 65 – 70 degrees / blue skies with white clouds

Another day of walking in nature. Soft on the feet. Easy on the eyes.

People seem so small in comparison to the forest.
Now it’s become usual to have other pilgrims in sight.
With only “Wonder Bread” and powdery coffee for breakfast, I willingly walked an extra mile to today’s only Café. Boldly I stepped over the closed chain thinking it’s well advertised so surely it is open. Not so. The owner showed me mercy and made the best coffee, fried his hen’s latest egg, and his toasted his neighbor’s homemade bread.
Truly a lovely walk.
My destination is juxtaposition from today’s walk.

Eyecatchers – June 12, 2023

  • Portuguese Central Camino: Day 13 /Rubiães to Tui, Spain
  • Distance: 12.6 miles / Total 159.3 miles
  • Ascent: 943’ / Descent: 1,449’
  • Time: 7 hours
  • Weather: 60 – 75 degrees / sprinkled rain first hour than blue skies with white clouds

Eyecatchers…

Red house in Valença.
Tui, Spain from Portugal.
Green house in Tui.
Cathedral in Tui.
Cathedral’s Cloisters
Cathedral’s Cloisters
Valença seen from Tui’s Cathedral.
View from Tui’s Cathedral.