It has been said as pilgrims descend from Funami-toge Pass, they may see a figure coming towards them. As the figure approaches the pilgrim recognizes it as a deceased friend or relative. When the pilgrim begins to speak, the figure vanishes. Namiyo hopes she will meet her father.
OVERVIEW
In 1201 the famous poet Fujiware Teika wrote in his diary, “This route is very rough and difficult; it is impossible to describe precisely how tough it is.” I couldn’t express it better.
This Japanese woman epitomized the friendliness and manners of its people. Even masked her eyes dances with joy. I had to bow to my knees to show her more respect than what she showed me.
Today’s clearer skies reveal Kumano Kodo’s mountains. I thought I was finally getting stronger walking legs until I discovered the mileage, ascent, and time were a fraction of the past days. Wishful thinking has thoughts of lower mountains, stronger legs.
On the Camino Santiago there’s always 7 pilgrims in front of you. Pass those 7 and you have 7 pilgrims behind you and a new 7 pilgrims in front of you. We may see 3 dozen people a day walking the Kumano Kodo. They are never in our eye sight for more than 5 minutes until one of us is gone.
OVERVIEW
I quickly remember why I enjoyed walking the Camino with Namiyo and Saburo. They walk in silence. For me, conversation disturbs nature’s beauty.
It is hard to photograph the beauty of walking Kumano Kudo. The immensely straight and immensely tall cypress and cedar forest seem always at hands reach. The mountain slopes range 45-80°. Slip off the trail and you may easily roll out of sight and simply be gone.
There are hundreds of minor temples supporting Kumano Sanzan, the three major temples. At each temple is a passport stamp station to document your visit. This entitles you for a Kumano Kodo certificate. It’s similarly to the Santiago de Compostelle Camino passport and certificate system.
OVERVIEW
The conditions of the Kumano Kudo trails are outstanding. Pristine clear trails never blocked by downed trees or branches. Every water crossing had a bridge. Well signed including sequential numbering posted every 3/10th of a mile. Plentiful clean flush toilets completely with toilet paper. All this care yet I never saw any trail maintenance.
The walk started with a two hour brutal 1,000’ ascent in less than a mile. I am reminded of a quote by George Ticknor, “The ascent of this steep, savage, hill was as pensive and slow as Satin’s ascent to paradise.”
Linda Scandore 