Linda

Dessert a’la De Jour ~ Day 27 ~ May 3, 2014

Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 329 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom

Dessert a’la De Jour is Mud Tart. Though no rain, the dirt paths are beyond saturation. I have learned what I thought were detour signs were in fact detour signs. As I don’t read French I continue on the marked Chemin slipping and sliding. Mud leaves many footprints for me to follow.

This mud is like a desperate lover clinging to the soles and sides of my boots and I become the former lover trying to extradite myself.

This mud on my boots is like a snow shovel with caked ice that defies gravity and refuses to release. As the snow shovel feels as light a spade once the ice is removed, my boots feel as light as slippers once the mud is forced off.

On My Mind ~ Day 27 ~ May 3, 2014

Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 316 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom

Chapelle Sainte-Germaine from 12-13th century is all that remains of a former monastery. A group from Versailles called me back as I had breezed right by the Chapelle. How fortunate for me as I enjoyed my moment of silence and respite in this secrete place. Once again I find the less within a church, the more my mind has to say. Note my back pack resting on the third aisle left side.

If You Build It ~ Day 26 ~ May 2, 2014

Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude:
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu

If you build it, people will come. This lunch shelter is shared by waves of pilgrims. Hard boiled eggs left on the table are sold on the honor system. It’s always good sharing Christine and Mimi’s company.

Any Way You Want It ~ Day 26 ~ May 2, 2014

Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu

Any way you want it is how you’d find the weather. No longer do I feel annoyed putting my rain jacket on and off. I can’t say the same for my “Chippendale” (full length double-side zip) rain pants as they take time putting them on and off.

The mud reminds me of the summer slip and slide toy made by Wham-O. Your feet go every which way. Keeping upright takes full attention.

Picnic lunch by the pond with a priceless view of the 14th-century Collegiale Church. My room is a mixed dormitory at a former convent. Wonder what the nuns would have to say?

First Glance ~ Day 25 ~ May 1, 2014

Day 25, May 1
15 miles, 294 miles total
Altitude: 108 meters
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Lectoure

The first glance from one pilgrim to another is not looks. It’s sizing up the weight of their back packs. The first few weeks terse pilgrims directly asked the weight of people’s packs. Those with a relatively light packs were admired. Envied. Lusted. Those with too much weight were mentally chastised.

Day-packers, those with a shuttle service for their “real packs,” are in a different category. I’m reserving my opinions about these Cadillac pilgrims.

With water my pack weighed in at 7.1 kilograms, 15.7 pounds (two pounds over my realistic goal). The ideal weight is 10% of your weight which would be 10 pounds for me. The difficulty lies in packing for winter, spring, and summer plus a medical kit for on the spot treatment. The ubiquitous black dress isn’t to be found.

1492 ~ Day 24 ~ April 30, 2014

Day 24, April 30
12 miles, 279 miles total
Altitude: 347feet
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Auvillar

In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue. That is also the same century the lower section of this house was built. Part of the home has been turned into a Gite to give back to pilgrims. Another part of the house has been turned into a potter’s workshop with class space for children. The lowest level was once used as stables and has been converted into a kitchen with a curved brick ceiling including skylights. Yes, those are my clothes hanging on the balcony. Cleaning mud from walking clothes is a high priority these days.

Daily Bread? ~ Day 23 ~ April 29, 2014

Day 23, April 29

15 miles, 267 miles total
Altitude: 249 feet
Weather: rainy and cloudy 38-58F
Moissac

Daily bread? No, daily quiche and tart.

For the Birds ~ Day 23 ~ April 29, 2014

Day 23, April 29

15 miles, 275 miles total
Altitude: 267 feet
Weather: rainy and cloudy 38-58F
Moissac

Half-timbered dovecote, Quercy. To live like this, I could be a foul.

Muddy Footprints ~ Day 23 ~ April 29, 2014

Day 23, April 29

15 miles, 267 miles total

Altitude: 249 feet

Weather: rainy and cloudy 38-58F

Moissac

Muddy footprints will lead you here for this series of photographs from one knoll. My stride resembled Michael Jackson’s moonwalk as slick mud draws each foot backwards. Caked mud makes the boots heavy like iron weights. Is it worth the effort? Yes!

Big ~ Day 23 ~ April 23, 2014

Day 23, April 28

15 miles

267 miles total

Altitude: 249 feet

Weather: rainy and cloudy 38-58F
Moissac

Pilgrims, as did I, came to big cathedrals.

Abbey Church of Saint-Pierre was built in 12th century. I attended vespers service lead by four nuns who had the most amazing voices. Each note they sung suspended in the air as it echoed off the stone walls. The nuns wore the traditional white gown and vail having an etheral and fluid quality. They made the sigh of the cross and bowed with exaggerated yet graceful movements. They moved like dancers. Like opera sung in Italian, one did not need the knowledge of French to understand the beauty of the service.