Tic – Sept. 29, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 16 / São João to Grijó
  • Distance: 12.8 miles / Total 233.3 miles
  • Time: 6 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: ???’ Decent: ???’
  • Weather: 55- 64 degrees, starting in misty rain which turns to steady rain. Blue skies by noon.

I’ve become a tic on a page. Since 2013, the café proprietor keeps a yearly account of the nationality of pilgrims. He’s anxious I mark my tic and shows no concern that water is flooding off me onto the dry floor.

The proprietor, the quintessential bean counter.
My tic makes 11 Americans for 2022. USA is trailing behind 1st place France with 13. Note Alaska with one tic isn’t included in the America division. No log sheet for 2020 and 2021 during COVID pandemic.
“Where everyone knows your name and they’re glad you came.”
After hours walking in the rain, I am utterly happy to be in this place.

Before Sunrise – Sept. 29, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 16 / São João to Grijó
  • Distance: 12.8 miles / Total 233.3 miles
  • Time: 6 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: ???’ Decent: ???’
  • Weather: 55- 64 degrees, misty rain to steady rain until noon (added “French” rain poncho over Gortex jacket and paints)

There’s always special beauty before sunrise. The absence of sound and people are peaceful.

Fortunately the church bell that rings on the quarter hour stops at 9:00pm.
I’m not the only one keeping early hours.
I’m not the only one covered in raindrops.

Last Row – Sept. 28, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 15 / Albergaria-a-Nova to São João
  • Distance: 15.7 miles / Total 220.5 miles
  • Time: 8 hours
  • Ascent: 1,792’ Decent: 1,527’
  • Weather: 55-71 degrees / partly cloudy

Last row to hoe. Whether it’s 5, 10, or 15 miles to walk, the last miles are the hardest. Towards the end, my thinking isn’t as sharp. I see way marking signs but I don’t really look at them. Was it “right,” “left,” or “straight on?” Retracing my steps, I actually look at the sign. My body is saying break time.

Pre-dawn bread delivery is common. Slipping away from my hostel at 5:30am, I asked to buy bread from the delivery man. Smiling he offered me a roll and good journey.
As a scallop shells was on his pack, could he be returning from Santiago de Compostelle?
I will follow you anywhere.
Urban living in a green tiled house.

She’s Everywhere – Sept. 27, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 14 / Águeda to Albergaria-a-Nova
  • Distance: 13.7 miles / Total 204.8 miles
  • Time: 7 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: 1,052’ Decent: 724’
  • Weather: 55-75 degrees / sunny, cloudless & breezy. Started out in down jacket.

Images of Fátima are everywhere. She is Portugal.

Fátima
Most popular tile image on homes.
Fátima
Fátima
Pilgrims to Fátima. We are now going in opposite directions.
Fátima pilgrims light backpacks and high spirits.

Hold On – Sept. 27, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 14 / Águeda to Albergaria-a-Nova
  • Distance: 13.7 miles / Total 204.8 miles
  • Time: 7 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: 1,052’ Decent: 724’
  • Weather: 55-75 degrees / sunny, cloudless & breezy. Started the day in my down coat.

Hold on to the morning light. Colors are saturated and the sharpest.

Contrasting colors.
Color reflections.
Colors

Colors becoming warmer.

“Santiago” – Sept. 26, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 13 / Mealhada to Águeda
  • Distance: 16.6 miles / Total 191.1 miles
  • Time: 8 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: 1,035’ Decent: 1,006’
  • Weather: 55-75 degrees / sunny & breezy…cool enough for SmartWool shirt in the evening

My energy is fast fading when a car pulled over. The driver enthusiastically said, “Santiago!” He handed me a bag with a bottle of cold water and 2 chilled apples. Just what I needed. Just what a dozen other pilgrims needed today and also received.

Águeda
Águeda
Águeda art instillation.

Bits and Pieces – Sept. 26, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 13 / Mealhada to Águeda
  • Distance: 16.6 miles / Total 191.1 miles
  • Time: 8 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: 1,035’ / Decent: 1,006’
  • Weather: 55-75 degrees / sunny & breezy…evening cool enough for SmartWool shirt

When the scenery is dull, bits and pieces become notable. I walk zig-zag to claim patches of shadow. Weaving along provides different perspectives.

Bits
Pieces from other places.
Today’s bloom.

Solo – Sept. 25, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 12 / Coimbra to Mealhada
  • Distance: 15.9 miles / Total 174.5 miles
  • Time: 9 hours Ascent: 834’ Decent: 777’
  • Weather: 55-75 degrees / sunny & breezy

Walking by yourself has a freedom of spirit. There is spontaneity in each step. How I need and enjoy walking solo.

5:00am pre-dawn start. GPS is a wonderful thing.
Hostel’s tile work.
Capturing the warm color.
Rose, the bloom of the day.

Grief – Sept. 24, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 11 / Conimbriga to Coimbra
  • Distance: 12.5 miles 😊 / Total 158.6 miles
  • Time: 6 hours 15 minutes
  • Ascent: 1,057’ Decent: 1,373’
  • Weather: 60-75 degrees / sunny & breezy.

An unexpected death in Christian’s family brings grief and a sorrowful interruption to his Camino. Today we speak of our new memories. Tomorrow he begins his journey home to be with family.

Sunrise start.
Overlooking Coimbra
Capturing the two of us before we go separate ways.
Coimbra’s street action.
Old Coimbra church situated on a hill…but of course.