Pictures de Jour ~ Sept. 15, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 02 / Alpriate to Vila Franca de Xira
  • Distance: 11.7 miles / Total 26.2
  • Time: 7 hours
  • Ascent: 353’ / Decent: 410’
  • Weather: 76 degrees / partly cloudy, one rain sprinkle

Today’s picks….

No electricity scooters for pilgrims.
All that is missing is a Piña Colada.
Blue tile house.
Ever changing sky.
Controlled chaos.

“Are you Linda?” ~ Sept. 15, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 02 / Alpriate to Vila Franca de Xira
  • Distance: 11.7 miles / Total 26.2 Time: 7 hours
  • Ascent: 353’ / Decent: 410’
  • Weather: 76 degrees / partly cloudy, one rain sprinkle

“Are you Linda?” comes a soft voice. I was overwhelmed to find Christian standing by the river front café. We met June 2014 on the Camino France (Spain). By happenstance our itinerary for the Portugués Camino overlap. All that is missing is his brother Bertrand also from the 2014 Camino. Now we walk.

Happenstance reunion.
2014 Camino France, Christian and me.
2014 Camino France, Bertrand and Christian

Unsightly District ~ Sept. 15, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 02 / Alpriate to Vila Franca de Xira
  • Distance: 11.7 miles / Total 26.2
  • Time: 7 hours
  • Ascent: 353’ / Decent: 410’
  • Weather: 76 degrees / partly cloudy, one rain sprinkle

Living up to its reputation as an unsightly commercial district, the outskirt of Lisbon is dominated by trains, trucks, storage containers, and warehouses. As my eyes constantly roam for way markers, I look for beauty in a sea of commerce.

Slip and Slide ~ Sept. 14, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 01 / Lisbon to Alpriate
  • Distance: 14.5 miles / Total 14.5
  • Time: 6 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: 504’ / Decent: 563’
  • Weather: 85 degrees / cycling overcast, rain, sunny

It’s debatable which is more slipper when wet…black-and-white city stone sidewalks or muddy dirt paths. Muddy dirt paths get the “Slip and Slide” award. It’s certainly the dirtier of the two.

Dressed for rain.
Winner of “Slip and Slide” award.
Water makes mud. Water cleans mud.

Status ~ Sept. 14, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 01 / Lisbon to Alpriate
  • Distance: 14.5 miles / Total 14.5
  • Time: 6 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: 504’ / Decent: 563’
  • Weather: 85 degrees / cycling overcast, rain, sunny

What to expect Camino post-Covid? The Albergue host confirms there are fewer hostels and those open fill daily. A local baker delivers breads, sweets, and cheeses every day to the village. These deliveries are more than a convenience to communities without grocery stores.

Bakery on wheels.
Fabulous tasty not-too-sweet cookies.
Blooms, feast for eyes.

The Start ~ Sept. 14, 2022

  • Portuguese Camino: Day 01 / Lisbon to Alpriate
  • Distance: 14.5 miles / Total 14.5
  • Time: 6 hours 30 minutes
  • Ascent: 504’ / Decent 563’
  • Weather: 85 degrees / cycling overcast, rain, sunny

For me, beginning the Camino from a kitchen seems befitting. Close to the Rua Augusta Arch is Sé Cathedral, considered the official Camino start for Lisbon. After asking the cathedral usher three times where was the Camino’s way-marker, he escorted me. Figure-background…do you see purple graffiti or the Camino way-marker?

Good Morning Solo Traveller Hostel, Lisbon
Rua Augusta Arch, Lisbon
Sé Cathedral, Lisbon
Graffiti, but of course.
Way-marker, but of course.

Jerónimos Monastery – Sept. 13, 2022

  • Day 3: Lisbon
  • Weather: 65-80 degrees / blue skies with clouds, windy

The Jerónimos Monastery was built to commemorate Vasco da Gama. He was the first European to sail around Africa to India. Vasco da Gama died in India during his third voyage. His body, albeit well salted, was brought back to be buried at Jerónimos Monastery.

Jerónimos Monastery
Tomb of Vasco da Gama
Cloister of Jerónimos Monastery
Tower and Cloister of Cloister of Jerónimos Monastery
The Portugués Cavalry parades when a foreign dignitary is being presented at Jerónimos Monastery.
What luck to be at the right spot at the right time for this unscheduled event.
Splendid.

Walking Tour – Sept. 13, 2022

  • Day 3: Lisbon
  • Weather: 65-80 degrees / blue skies with clouds, windy

Both walking tours in Lisbon are exceptional. They bring order to a maze of streets while adding historical content. Our guide calls attention to the sepia photographs quietly displayed on city walls. Increases in tourism…increases in rents. Affordable rents are declining as accommodations are being flipped for profitable Airb&b’s. These portraits of locals help establish laws preserving a portion of housing as affordable.

Growth vs. affordable housing.
Reputation built on the custard pies.
Watching the baker.
A good Lisbon Walking Tour must include the infamous custard pie.
Windy day in Lisbon.

Rain – Sept. 12, 2022

  • Day 2: Lisbon
  • Weather: 65-80 degrees / thunderstorms with downpour, overcast

Driving rain sent me purchasing the first in a series of €5 umbrellas. When the rains stops, each umbrella became the latest donation. Travel light.

Dressed for rain.
Clutching my first “donation” umbrella. My motto is, “Use it or loose it.”
Dodging umbrellas.
Even Gortex rain gear could not handle today’s fierce rain. I am willing to carry extra weight for an extra layer of rain gear. It takes two Decathlon Sport Stores before I am able to buy the last rain poncho in Lisbon.