Boot Markers ~ Day 28 ~ May 4, 2014

Day 28, May 4
11 miles, 327 miles total
Altitude: 135 meters
Weather: sunny with partial clouds 38-64F
Montreal-du-Gers

An old pair of boots decorated the sign for today’s lodging, Gite d’tape Compostela. The two-hundred year old exposed beams make an effective room divider. By now all pilgrims are well practiced in stowing boots and batons de marche (walking poles).
The stair risers and treads show their age with different heights. Going up and down the stairs has the drunken effect of being in an amusement park’s funny house. From the back yard ledge the snow capped Pyrenees can be seen for the first time. Unfortunately my iPhone can’t capture the Pyrenees.

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Nobody’s Home ~ Day 27 ~ May 3, 2014

Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 316 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom

Nobody’s home except me. The gentleman who confirmed my reservation last night learned no one would be at the Gite upon my arrival; however, the door has a pass code for entrance. As you can tell by the photos, this place is gem. With a bit of snooping, I found the refrigerator stocked with wine and soda, a box of Darjeeling tea, an outdoor sink for cleaning boots, and clothes line for my now mud-free clothes. After weeks of people, I savor my own company and reflection.

Hours later I am joined by a man from Switzerland pulling a two-wheel cart. I have become the welcome wagon. He shares his vegetarian dinner with me. Camino magic.

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1492 ~ Day 24 ~ April 30, 2014

Day 24, April 30
12 miles, 279 miles total
Altitude: 347feet
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Auvillar

In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue. That is also the same century the lower section of this house was built. Part of the home has been turned into a Gite to give back to pilgrims. Another part of the house has been turned into a potter’s workshop with class space for children. The lowest level was once used as stables and has been converted into a kitchen with a curved brick ceiling including skylights. Yes, those are my clothes hanging on the balcony. Cleaning mud from walking clothes is a high priority these days.

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Ring around the Posies ~ Day 19 ~ April 25, 2014

Day 19, April 25
11 miles, 210 miles total
Altitude: 300 METERS
Weather: partly cloudy & light rain 50-60F
Vaylats
Joanna, from London joins me

Within the Monastere des Filles de Jesus cloisters, nuns joined hands forming a circle around a newly planted flower bed and began to sweetly sing in French. They stood in innocence and faith typical of children. Juxtapose these 19th century buildings stood a nun trying to capture the Sister’s photograph at this sweet moment with a digital camera.

These retiring nun radiate with smiles felt from the heart.

Christine said, “The smile is the universal language on the Camino.”

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Guess Whose Coming to Dinner ~ Day 18 ~ April 24, 2014

Day 18, April 24
12 miles, 199 miles total
Altitude: 984 feet
Weather: partly cloudy 55-70F
Limogne-en-Quercy
Joanna, from London joins me

Gite owners who provide half-pension ask themselves this question every day. The thought of having more than a day’s food stocked in the refrigerator is unquestionable to the French; yet, they need to be able to provide dinner and breakfast for complete occupancy at gites. Tonight’s cassoulet dinner was magnifique !

Still looking for Gite that served escargot.

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Bits and Pieces ~ Day 17 ~ April 23, 2014

Day 17, April 23
19 miles, 187 miles total
Altitude: 488 feet
Weather: partly cloudy 55-74F
Cajarc
Joanna, from London joins me

This Parisian family is doing the Camino in bits and pieces on summer holidays. This is their third journey on the Chemin Saint Jaques. Teenagers develop their own tastes and preferences usually centered around their peers; yet, these young men voice the strongest desire to return as a family to the Chemin. Walking between medieval villages offers more character development then family vacation to Orlando and Walt Disney’s interpretation of medieval castles.

Cajarc is a medieval town nestled below chalk mountains where we have just finished a four course “Pilgrim’s Meal.” These prefix value meals are offered all along the way to Santiago as a means of supporting pilgrims.

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$49.33 plus Towel ~ Day 16 ~ April 22, 2014

Day 16. April 22
15.5 miles, 168 miles total
Altitude: 643 feet
Weather: cloudy, sprinkles 40-50F
Figeac
Joanna, from London joins me

The price of our four course dinner with wine in 13th century room above lodging in 15th century room with WiFi and towel (first towel supplied by gite).

PS
Croissant, home made jam, and hot chocolate for breakfast; plus, I was offered free phone service to USA. Viva la St Joseph’s Gite.
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Marrs ~ Day 15 ~ April 21, 2014

Day 15, April 21
15 miles, 152 miles total
Altitude: 721 feet
Weather: cloudy 45-55F
Livinhac-le-haut
Joanna, from London joins me

Did you know most businesses in France are closed on Monday? Now I know that to be a fact as the only provisions for lunch to be had on my walk today was a Marrs candy bar from an Esso gas station vending machine. Duck dinner more than made up for the short comings.

Joanna and I walked in the morning mist. Our gite has blue shutters accented by the Wisteria in full bloom.

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Cinq Senses ~ Day 14 ~ April 20, 2014

Day 14, April 20
0 miles, 137 miles total REST DAY#2
Altitude: 918 feet
Weather: cold and rainy 32-45F
Conques
Joanna, from London joins me

SIGHT
Wild flowers, stone walls, endless beauty, open expanses, old, very old buildings, pilgrims walking

HEARING
Massey Ferguson tractors in the field, Citroens down shifting up hill, donkeys braying, chickens clicking, church bells, rippling streams, French mass

TASTE
Rich wine, smoked duck, bread and butter, cool water, pastries, pastries, pastries

SMELL
Wood smoke in the air, lilacs in bloom, incense swung in church, my sweet sweat, fragrant manure, odoriferous feet

TOUCH
Morning sun on my left arm, the sting of wind and sun on my face, walking poles rocking in my palm, silk sleeping bag, ill fitting pillows

My friends and I snuck lunch into our convent room. I figured out how to turn on the radiator as it is cold and rainy. We tossed crumbs from our napkins out the window for fear of being found out and thrown out of our lodging. Like hiking in the woods, leave no trace behind.

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Rapunzal’s Tower ~ Day 14 ~ April 20, 2014

Day 14, April 20
0 miles, 137 miles total REST DAY#2
Altitude: 918 feet
Weather: cold and overcast 32-50F
Conques
Joanna, from London joins me

Expecting my Pilgrim Credential to fill before I get my second one being sent to Pamplona, I got another credential from the abbey. It as well as this morning’s pilgrims were blessed at a special pilgrim’s service. Easter mass is yet to come.

Christina, Mimi , and Joanna have claimed the bibliotheque as their place to write. I have this incredible chapel at the top of a stone tower. It’s a 12 foot round stone room with two windows, open beam ceiling with skylight, carpet, petite stools, electrical outlet for iPhone, and an “alter” on the floor. As I love to curl up on the floor, I am beyond content.

WiFi has not found my sanctuary. That’s okay.

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