Day 28, May 4
11 miles, 327 miles total
Altitude: 135 meters
Weather: sunny with partial clouds 38-64F
Montreal-du-Gers
What a difference a day without rain makes. Though the rain had been light, the ground was saturated. A few days ago I discovered the joys a clothes drier could bring. Today no clinging cloying mud and dry cloths off the line.
Morning break was by an old castle, Larresingle, with surrounding walls in tack. I still catch my breath seeing such antiquities.
Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 316 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom
Nobody’s home except me. The gentleman who confirmed my reservation last night learned no one would be at the Gite upon my arrival; however, the door has a pass code for entrance. As you can tell by the photos, this place is gem. With a bit of snooping, I found the refrigerator stocked with wine and soda, a box of Darjeeling tea, an outdoor sink for cleaning boots, and clothes line for my now mud-free clothes. After weeks of people, I savor my own company and reflection.
Hours later I am joined by a man from Switzerland pulling a two-wheel cart. I have become the welcome wagon. He shares his vegetarian dinner with me. Camino magic.
Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 329 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom
Dessert a’la De Jour is Mud Tart. Though no rain, the dirt paths are beyond saturation. I have learned what I thought were detour signs were in fact detour signs. As I don’t read French I continue on the marked Chemin slipping and sliding. Mud leaves many footprints for me to follow.
This mud is like a desperate lover clinging to the soles and sides of my boots and I become the former lover trying to extradite myself.
This mud on my boots is like a snow shovel with caked ice that defies gravity and refuses to release. As the snow shovel feels as light a spade once the ice is removed, my boots feel as light as slippers once the mud is forced off.
Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 316 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom
Chapelle Sainte-Germaine from 12-13th century is all that remains of a former monastery. A group from Versailles called me back as I had breezed right by the Chapelle. How fortunate for me as I enjoyed my moment of silence and respite in this secrete place. Once again I find the less within a church, the more my mind has to say. Note my back pack resting on the third aisle left side.
Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude:
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu
If you build it, people will come. This lunch shelter is shared by waves of pilgrims. Hard boiled eggs left on the table are sold on the honor system. It’s always good sharing Christine and Mimi’s company.
Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu
Any way you want it is how you’d find the weather. No longer do I feel annoyed putting my rain jacket on and off. I can’t say the same for my “Chippendale” (full length double-side zip) rain pants as they take time putting them on and off.
The mud reminds me of the summer slip and slide toy made by Wham-O. Your feet go every which way. Keeping upright takes full attention.
Picnic lunch by the pond with a priceless view of the 14th-century Collegiale Church. My room is a mixed dormitory at a former convent. Wonder what the nuns would have to say?
Day 25, May 1
15 miles, 294 miles total
Altitude: 108 meters
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Lectoure
The first glance from one pilgrim to another is not looks. It’s sizing up the weight of their back packs. The first few weeks terse pilgrims directly asked the weight of people’s packs. Those with a relatively light packs were admired. Envied. Lusted. Those with too much weight were mentally chastised.
Day-packers, those with a shuttle service for their “real packs,” are in a different category. I’m reserving my opinions about these Cadillac pilgrims.
With water my pack weighed in at 7.1 kilograms, 15.7 pounds (two pounds over my realistic goal). The ideal weight is 10% of your weight which would be 10 pounds for me. The difficulty lies in packing for winter, spring, and summer plus a medical kit for on the spot treatment. The ubiquitous black dress isn’t to be found.
Day 24, April 30
12 miles, 279 miles total
Altitude: 347feet
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Auvillar
In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue. That is also the same century the lower section of this house was built. Part of the home has been turned into a Gite to give back to pilgrims. Another part of the house has been turned into a potter’s workshop with class space for children. The lowest level was once used as stables and has been converted into a kitchen with a curved brick ceiling including skylights. Yes, those are my clothes hanging on the balcony. Cleaning mud from walking clothes is a high priority these days.
Day 23, April 29
15 miles, 267 miles total
Altitude: 249 feet
Weather: rainy and cloudy 38-58F
Moissac
Daily bread? No, daily quiche and tart.
Day 23, April 29
15 miles, 275 miles total
Altitude: 267 feet
Weather: rainy and cloudy 38-58F
Moissac
Half-timbered dovecote, Quercy. To live like this, I could be a foul.
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Linda Scandore 