Weather: 55- 64 degrees, starting in misty rain which turns to steady rain. Blue skies by noon.
I’ve become a tic on a page. Since 2013, the café proprietor keeps a yearly account of the nationality of pilgrims. He’s anxious I mark my tic and shows no concern that water is flooding off me onto the dry floor.
The proprietor, the quintessential bean counter. My tic makes 11 Americans for 2022. USA is trailing behind 1st place France with 13. Note Alaska with one tic isn’t included in the America division. No log sheet for 2020 and 2021 during COVID pandemic. “Where everyone knows your name and they’re glad you came.”After hours walking in the rain, I am utterly happy to be in this place.
Weather: 55- 64 degrees, misty rain to steady rain until noon (added “French” rain poncho over Gortex jacket and paints)
There’s always special beauty before sunrise. The absence of sound and people are peaceful.
Fortunately the church bell that rings on the quarter hour stops at 9:00pm. I’m not the only one keeping early hours. I’m not the only one covered in raindrops.
Portuguese Camino: Day 15 / Albergaria-a-Nova to São João
Distance: 15.7 miles / Total 220.5 miles
Time: 8 hours
Ascent: 1,792’ Decent: 1,527’
Weather: 55-71 degrees / partly cloudy
Last row to hoe. Whether it’s 5, 10, or 15 miles to walk, the last miles are the hardest. Towards the end, my thinking isn’t as sharp. I see way marking signs but I don’t really look at them. Was it “right,” “left,” or “straight on?” Retracing my steps, I actually look at the sign. My body is saying break time.
Pre-dawn bread delivery is common. Slipping away from my hostel at 5:30am, I asked to buy bread from the delivery man. Smiling he offered me a roll and good journey. As a scallop shells was on his pack, could he be returning from Santiago de Compostelle?I will follow you anywhere. Urban living in a green tiled house.
Portuguese Camino: Day 14 / Águeda to Albergaria-a-Nova
Distance: 13.7 miles / Total 204.8 miles
Time: 7 hours 30 minutes
Ascent: 1,052’ Decent: 724’
Weather: 55-75 degrees / sunny, cloudless & breezy. Started out in down jacket.
Images of Fátima are everywhere. She is Portugal.
FátimaMost popular tile image on homes. Fátima Fátima Pilgrims to Fátima. We are now going in opposite directions. Fátima pilgrims light backpacks and high spirits.
Weather: 55-75 degrees / sunny & breezy…cool enough for SmartWool shirt in the evening
My energy is fast fading when a car pulled over. The driver enthusiastically said, “Santiago!” He handed me a bag with a bottle of cold water and 2 chilled apples. Just what I needed. Just what a dozen other pilgrims needed today and also received.