Day 73, June 18
20 miles, 893 miles
Altitude: 2,230 feet ( 4,380 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 45-85F
Tricastela
Sunrise set-off. So fine.
Walking does get easier.
The legionary pilgrim couple from Japan. She is 79 and he 85 years old. The albergues are filled with their nightly cooking fragrances.
Inspirational.
Day 72, June 17
6 miles, 873 miles
Altitude: 2 feet (3,051 feet daily high) 1300 meters climbing 800 meters in 6 miles
Weather: sunny 45-85F
O Cebreiro
I had my earliest start at 6:00 AM with faint light. The weather was crisp and clear. I started out in a wool cap, windbreaker, gloves, nylon mittens, and shorts. The walk was a 4 km warm-up, 4 km gain in altitude, break for Cafe con Leche, fresh squeezed orange juice, and a huge piece of pound cake for 4€, than the final 4km steep climb to the top. Breaks were easy as there were so many breathing views. I got to the top in my infamous white shirt well before the Spanish sun got intense and joined the cue for the Municipal Albergue charging 6€ for a dorm bed. A splendid day. O Cebreiro has the charm and setting of a Swiss alpine village.
Backpacks form a waiting line until the Albergue opens for pilgrims.
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Day 72, June 17
6 miles, 873 miles
Altitude: 2 feet (3,051 feet daily high) 1300 meters climbing 800 meters in 6 miles
Weather: sunny 45-85F
O Cebreiro
People have been carrying this mountain on their backs before they ever got here. O Cebreiro is the dreaded twosome…the steepest and the highest mountain on the Camino. When you begin reading about the Camino, O Cebreiro became the protagonist.
As with most things in life, worrying is far more difficult than dealing with the issue. Most of the pilgrims have already walked hundreds of miles with backpacks which get lighter by the week. (Yes, I am still tossing things from my pack.) The solution to a steep and high mountain is to go slow. As Coach Mark says, “Perception of effort.” If you feel exertion, slow down. Take a break.
Day 71, June 16
16 miles, 867 miles
Altitude: 2,066 feet (3,051 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 55-85F
Vega de Valcare
By foot or hoof, we are climbing. Though gaining in altitude, snow is no longer in view.
Castillo de Sarracin XIVthC overlooking Vega de Valcare. strong>br />
Day 71, June 16
16 miles, 867 miles
Altitude: 2,066 feet (3,051 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 55-85F
Vega de Valcare
In memory of Cynthia’s sister who loved walking and was deeply loved.
Parish church of St. John the Baptist.
Day 70, June 15
17 miles, 851 miles
Altitude: 1,607 feet (2,690 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 55-85F hot
Cacanelos
Build a better box, and you can rent it. Thirty-five “boxes” at 5€ each house 70 pilgrims. Rooms are arranged in a semi-circle around Capilla de Las Angustia, XVIIIthC.
Showers were hot.
Day 70, June 15
17 miles, 851 miles
Altitude: 1,607 feet (2,690 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 55-85F hot
Cacanelos
In passing, I walked by countless family garden plots and rip cherry trees. The cherries are refreshing, sweet and juicy. For the past two weeks, enterprising individuals have been along the way selling cherries wrapped in newspaper cones.
A large percent of the church steeples are homes to storks. Smaller birds fashion their nest in the lower portion of the stork’s nest.
Day 70, June 15
17 miles, 851 miles
Altitude: 1,607 feet (2,690 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 55-85F hot
Cacanelos
Castillo de los Templarios, disappointingly close today as it was Sunday and as a half-marathon was being held in front of it.
Day 70, June 15
17 miles, 851 miles
Altitude: 1,607 feet (2,690 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 55-85F hot
Cacanelos
Roman water cistern Fuente Romano is still functioning. Know a good plumber? Campo, historic village.
Iglesia de Santa Maria de Vizbayo, 11th century Romanesque church. Campo, historic village.
Day 69, June 14
16 miles, 834 miles
Altitude: 2,690 feet (4,940 feet highest point on journey)
Weather: sunny 55-85F hot
Molinaseca
Having carried a heart shaped rock from Virginia, I duly left it at the highest point on the Camino, La Cruz de Ferro, altitude 4,490 feet.
Plunging down 2,200 feet, the mid-day heat feels like summer in Prescott, Arizona. The temperature isn’t so high. It’s the intense of the sun that makes it uncomfortable and makes siesta inviting.
A Frenchman commented my appearance was so fresh. I simply smiled without divulging a three day rest at the Monistery.
