Day 30, May 6
12 miles, 356 miles total
Altitude: unlisted
Weather: overcast 58-73F
Lanne-Soubiran
An authentic outing as only the French can do. Check out the leather panniers and saddle. Ann and John kindly let me post their family enjoying the country side.
Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 316 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom
Nobody’s home except me. The gentleman who confirmed my reservation last night learned no one would be at the Gite upon my arrival; however, the door has a pass code for entrance. As you can tell by the photos, this place is gem. With a bit of snooping, I found the refrigerator stocked with wine and soda, a box of Darjeeling tea, an outdoor sink for cleaning boots, and clothes line for my now mud-free clothes. After weeks of people, I savor my own company and reflection.
Hours later I am joined by a man from Switzerland pulling a two-wheel cart. I have become the welcome wagon. He shares his vegetarian dinner with me. Camino magic.
Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude:
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu
If you build it, people will come. This lunch shelter is shared by waves of pilgrims. Hard boiled eggs left on the table are sold on the honor system. It’s always good sharing Christine and Mimi’s company.
Day 25, May 1
15 miles, 294 miles total
Altitude: 108 meters
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Lectoure
The first glance from one pilgrim to another is not looks. It’s sizing up the weight of their back packs. The first few weeks terse pilgrims directly asked the weight of people’s packs. Those with a relatively light packs were admired. Envied. Lusted. Those with too much weight were mentally chastised.
Day-packers, those with a shuttle service for their “real packs,” are in a different category. I’m reserving my opinions about these Cadillac pilgrims.
With water my pack weighed in at 7.1 kilograms, 15.7 pounds (two pounds over my realistic goal). The ideal weight is 10% of your weight which would be 10 pounds for me. The difficulty lies in packing for winter, spring, and summer plus a medical kit for on the spot treatment. The ubiquitous black dress isn’t to be found.
Day 20, April 26
15 miles, 225 miles total
Altitude: 400 feet
Weather: partly cloudy & light rain 34-60F
Cahors
Au Revoir Joanna
This I how it works. A driver takes the older white
Shihuahua
by car while the 4 month
Shihuahua
rides in a kangaroo waist pouch being carried on the Camino. They are going to Santiago with the charming red head from Bordeaux and her Spanish friend.
Day 17, April 23
19 miles, 187 miles total
Altitude: 488 feet
Weather: partly cloudy 55-74F
Cajarc
Joanna, from London joins me
This Parisian family is doing the Camino in bits and pieces on summer holidays. This is their third journey on the Chemin Saint Jaques. Teenagers develop their own tastes and preferences usually centered around their peers; yet, these young men voice the strongest desire to return as a family to the Chemin. Walking between medieval villages offers more character development then family vacation to Orlando and Walt Disney’s interpretation of medieval castles.
Cajarc is a medieval town nestled below chalk mountains where we have just finished a four course “Pilgrim’s Meal.” These prefix value meals are offered all along the way to Santiago as a means of supporting pilgrims.
Day 16. April 22
15.5 miles, 168 miles total
Altitude: 643 feet
Weather: cloudy, sprinkles 40-50F
Figeac
Joanna, from London joins me
The price of our four course dinner with wine in 13th century room above lodging in 15th century room with WiFi and towel (first towel supplied by gite).
PS
Croissant, home made jam, and hot chocolate for breakfast; plus, I was offered free phone service to USA. Viva la St Joseph’s Gite.
Day 11, April 17
14 miles, 103 miles total
Altitude: 1,263 feet
Weather: warm and sunny 45-62F
Saint-Come d’Olt
The community oven in l’Estrade has been turned into hospitality shelter offering coffee, tea, or orange juice for pilgrims. Our coffee was interrupted by two farmers driving cows down the hamlet lane.
The Camino provides. The web of connections expands. Having gotten rid of my “heavy” coins, “Pilgrim Corsica” donated a euro for me. Having muscle pain, I pulled out a couple of Advil from my pack and handed them to him. In turn, “Pilgrim Corsica” having met a pilgrim with knee issues shares one Advil with him.
Day 11, April 17
14 miles, 103 miles total
Altitude: 1,263 feet
Weather: warm and sunny 45-62F
Saint-Come d’Olt
The sound of a stream is heard before seeing it. As if an infinant bow is drawn across a violin, the rushing sound of water fills the air. Once reaching the bank of the stream, I joined other pilgrims enjoying a reprieve from their backpack and shoes. Icy water slowly numbs the weary feet.
Neptune’s Muse I have met several times. Tall and svelte, she moves with the grace of a dancer. Surely this Barthelona beauty would have captured Neptune’s heart.
Day 9, April 15
0 miles, 74 miles total, REST DAY #1
Altitude: 3,818 feet
Weather: warm and sunny
Nasbinals
Like the threads of a spider’s web, people on the Camino are connected. I met French Christine and Mimi on Day 3. After walking together, I pulled ahead at a quicker pace. Ten minutes later, I missed a turn and became frightened. I actually yelled, “Mimi” in hopes of being heard. Alas, I backtracked and with great relief found them. For the rest of the day I would walk ahead only as far as I could keep them in eye sight. Christine and Mimi became my security blankets allowing me to become more confident. A thread in the web.
Having arrived at Nasbinals I sat outside a cafe with an expresso when along comes a Frenchman who asks if I was the American lady walking the Camino. The French women had spoke of me. A thread in the web.
Kismet! The French ladies arrive with Christine distressed from a backpack with a broken back brace and blisters on her feet. I help administer to her blisters and offer a temporary repair to her backpack. Most of all, I offer her friendship. We will meet in three more days. A threat in the web.
They say the Camino provides…the web grows.
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Linda Scandore 