Day 75, June 20
14miles, 923 miles
Altitude: 1,148 feet (2,165 feet daily high)
Weather: hot, hazy, humid 60-78F
Portomarin
100 KM to Santiago!
The French brothers have become dear walking friends.
Day 74, June 19
16 miles, 909 miles
Altitude: 1,444 feet (2,970 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny & streaky clouds 45-85F HOT
Sarria
A 1:00 PM curfew should exist for walking in mid-June. Beyond that time the sun is too intense. Even with a hat and sunglasses, the sun painfully penetrates my eyes. Albeit, being still in the shade is pleasant.
Having toured the monastary in the morning, the walked spilled into the afternoon. I didn’t arrive at the albergue until 4:00 PM.
Day 74, June 19
16 miles, 909 miles
Altitude: 1,444 feet (2,970 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 45-85F
Sarria
One of the oldest monastery in the western world is the Benedictine Monasterio de Samos. A good portion of the monastery has been rebuilt since a fire in the 1950’s.
Toast tasted a bit better sitting across from the monastery.
Day 73, June 18
20 miles, 893 miles
Altitude: 2,230 feet ( 4,380 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 45-85F
Tricastela
Sunrise set-off. So fine.
Walking does get easier.
The legionary pilgrim couple from Japan. She is 79 and he 85 years old. The albergues are filled with their nightly cooking fragrances.
Inspirational.
Day 72, June 17
6 miles, 873 miles
Altitude: 2 feet (3,051 feet daily high) 1300 meters climbing 800 meters in 6 miles
Weather: sunny 45-85F
O Cebreiro
I had my earliest start at 6:00 AM with faint light. The weather was crisp and clear. I started out in a wool cap, windbreaker, gloves, nylon mittens, and shorts. The walk was a 4 km warm-up, 4 km gain in altitude, break for Cafe con Leche, fresh squeezed orange juice, and a huge piece of pound cake for 4€, than the final 4km steep climb to the top. Breaks were easy as there were so many breathing views. I got to the top in my infamous white shirt well before the Spanish sun got intense and joined the cue for the Municipal Albergue charging 6€ for a dorm bed. A splendid day. O Cebreiro has the charm and setting of a Swiss alpine village.
Backpacks form a waiting line until the Albergue opens for pilgrims.
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Day 72, June 17
6 miles, 873 miles
Altitude: 2 feet (3,051 feet daily high) 1300 meters climbing 800 meters in 6 miles
Weather: sunny 45-85F
O Cebreiro
People have been carrying this mountain on their backs before they ever got here. O Cebreiro is the dreaded twosome…the steepest and the highest mountain on the Camino. When you begin reading about the Camino, O Cebreiro became the protagonist.
As with most things in life, worrying is far more difficult than dealing with the issue. Most of the pilgrims have already walked hundreds of miles with backpacks which get lighter by the week. (Yes, I am still tossing things from my pack.) The solution to a steep and high mountain is to go slow. As Coach Mark says, “Perception of effort.” If you feel exertion, slow down. Take a break.
Day 70, June 15
17 miles, 851 miles
Altitude: 1,607 feet (2,690 feet daily high)
Weather: sunny 55-85F hot
Cacanelos
Build a better box, and you can rent it. Thirty-five “boxes” at 5€ each house 70 pilgrims. Rooms are arranged in a semi-circle around Capilla de Las Angustia, XVIIIthC.
Showers were hot.