Day 30, May 6
12 miles, 356 miles total
Altitude: unlisted
Weather: overcast 58-73F
Lanne-Soubiran
Churches have an open door policy.
Of the 95% churches visited, the door is unlocked. Vandalism is non existent.
Day 29, May 5
17 miles, 344 miles total
Altitude: unlisted
Weather: sunny 58-78F
Manciet
Happy Birthday Christine
It was a long and winding, and long and straight road today. The legs and feet move automatically. Endless vineyards. Many glimpses of the Pyrenees which look capped in Italian meringue.
Day 28, May 4
11 miles, 327 miles total
Altitude: 135 meters
Weather: sunny with partial clouds 38-64F
Montreal-du-Gers
An old pair of boots decorated the sign for today’s lodging, Gite d’tape Compostela. The two-hundred year old exposed beams make an effective room divider. By now all pilgrims are well practiced in stowing boots and batons de marche (walking poles).
The stair risers and treads show their age with different heights. Going up and down the stairs has the drunken effect of being in an amusement park’s funny house. From the back yard ledge the snow capped Pyrenees can be seen for the first time. Unfortunately my iPhone can’t capture the Pyrenees.
Day 28, May 4
11 miles, 327 miles total
Altitude: 135 meters
Weather: sunny with partial clouds 38-64F
Montreal-du-Gers
What a difference a day without rain makes. Though the rain had been light, the ground was saturated. A few days ago I discovered the joys a clothes drier could bring. Today no clinging cloying mud and dry cloths off the line.
Morning break was by an old castle, Larresingle, with surrounding walls in tack. I still catch my breath seeing such antiquities.
Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 316 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom
Nobody’s home except me. The gentleman who confirmed my reservation last night learned no one would be at the Gite upon my arrival; however, the door has a pass code for entrance. As you can tell by the photos, this place is gem. With a bit of snooping, I found the refrigerator stocked with wine and soda, a box of Darjeeling tea, an outdoor sink for cleaning boots, and clothes line for my now mud-free clothes. After weeks of people, I savor my own company and reflection.
Hours later I am joined by a man from Switzerland pulling a two-wheel cart. I have become the welcome wagon. He shares his vegetarian dinner with me. Camino magic.
Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 329 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom
Dessert a’la De Jour is Mud Tart. Though no rain, the dirt paths are beyond saturation. I have learned what I thought were detour signs were in fact detour signs. As I don’t read French I continue on the marked Chemin slipping and sliding. Mud leaves many footprints for me to follow.
This mud is like a desperate lover clinging to the soles and sides of my boots and I become the former lover trying to extradite myself.
This mud on my boots is like a snow shovel with caked ice that defies gravity and refuses to release. As the snow shovel feels as light a spade once the ice is removed, my boots feel as light as slippers once the mud is forced off.
Day 27, May 3
10 miles, 316 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
Condom
Chapelle Sainte-Germaine from 12-13th century is all that remains of a former monastery. A group from Versailles called me back as I had breezed right by the Chapelle. How fortunate for me as I enjoyed my moment of silence and respite in this secrete place. Once again I find the less within a church, the more my mind has to say. Note my back pack resting on the third aisle left side.
Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude:
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu
If you build it, people will come. This lunch shelter is shared by waves of pilgrims. Hard boiled eggs left on the table are sold on the honor system. It’s always good sharing Christine and Mimi’s company.
Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude: 478 meters
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu
Any way you want it is how you’d find the weather. No longer do I feel annoyed putting my rain jacket on and off. I can’t say the same for my “Chippendale” (full length double-side zip) rain pants as they take time putting them on and off.
The mud reminds me of the summer slip and slide toy made by Wham-O. Your feet go every which way. Keeping upright takes full attention.
Picnic lunch by the pond with a priceless view of the 14th-century Collegiale Church. My room is a mixed dormitory at a former convent. Wonder what the nuns would have to say?