Day 30, May 6
12 miles, 356 miles total
Altitude: unlisted
Weather: overcast 58-73F
Lanne-Soubiran
Fuel.
Day 26, May 2
12 miles, 306 miles total
Altitude:
Weather: rainy, cloudy, partly sunny 38-58F
La Romieu
If you build it, people will come. This lunch shelter is shared by waves of pilgrims. Hard boiled eggs left on the table are sold on the honor system. It’s always good sharing Christine and Mimi’s company.
Day 23, April 29
15 miles, 267 miles total
Altitude: 249 feet
Weather: rainy and cloudy 38-58F
Moissac
Muddy footprints will lead you here for this series of photographs from one knoll. My stride resembled Michael Jackson’s moonwalk as slick mud draws each foot backwards. Caked mud makes the boots heavy like iron weights. Is it worth the effort? Yes!
Day 20, April 26
15 miles, 225 miles total
Altitude: 400 feet
Weather: partly cloudy & light rain 34-60F
Cahors
Joanna, from London joins me
Straight as an arrow could well described the rocky ancient Roman roads we traveled today. After five hours of straight road, dreary could also be said. What perfect setting for a pilgrim’s welcoming station, Foot Rest. We felt as though the volunteer had been waiting all day long for Joanna and I to arrive. He brightened up just like a hungry puppy greeting its mother.
Welcome
sometimes has a flat quality. This volunteer’s
Welcome
could not have been more sincere or more appreciated.
Day 19, April 25
11 miles, 210 miles total
Altitude: 300 METERS
Weather: partly cloudy & light rain 50-60F
Vaylats
Joanna, from London joins me
Within the Monastere des Filles de Jesus cloisters, nuns joined hands forming a circle around a newly planted flower bed and began to sweetly sing in French. They stood in innocence and faith typical of children. Juxtapose these 19th century buildings stood a nun trying to capture the Sister’s photograph at this sweet moment with a digital camera.
These retiring nun radiate with smiles felt from the heart.
Christine said, “The smile is the universal language on the Camino.”
Day 13, April 19
13 miles, 137 miles total
Altitude: 918 feet
Weather: warm and overcast 32-62F
Conques
Joanna arrives!
Leaving Golinhac I met the most irresistible Canadian Landees dog, Titi, on his way to the river for a swim. His owner explained Titi was the most known and best loved in the village. Titi kissed me au revoir.
Joanna, from London, and I arrived at Conques within minutes of each other. We are staying at Accueil Abbaye Sainte-Foy which hosts pilgrims at the abbey. Our co-ed room has eight sets of bunk beds all full. As we got in late, all the bottom bunks were full. The top bunk has the vertue of no one at eye level. The bathroom is semi-coed with mixed use for showers and sinks; yet, separate toilets. People respect everyone’s privacy and are very civil in tight quarters. With 60 attending dinner, a third were welcomed familiar pilgrims I have met these past days. We attended evening high mass during this most Holy Week.
Day 11, April 17
14 miles, 103 miles total
Altitude: 1,263 feet
Weather: warm and sunny 45-62F
Saint-Come d’Olt
The community oven in l’Estrade has been turned into hospitality shelter offering coffee, tea, or orange juice for pilgrims. Our coffee was interrupted by two farmers driving cows down the hamlet lane.
The Camino provides. The web of connections expands. Having gotten rid of my “heavy” coins, “Pilgrim Corsica” donated a euro for me. Having muscle pain, I pulled out a couple of Advil from my pack and handed them to him. In turn, “Pilgrim Corsica” having met a pilgrim with knee issues shares one Advil with him.
Day 10, April 16
15 miles, 89 miles total
Altitude: 2,887 feet (decent 1,500 feet in 5 miles)
Weather: warm and sunny 27-60F
Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac
With deliberation three times a day I stop to tend to my feet. As Benjimin Franklin said, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Feet are checked for any hint of irritation and are “aired.” Socks are rotated and placed in opposite feet.
Day 10, April 16
15 miles, 89 miles total
Altitude: 2,887 feet (decent 1,500 feet in 5 miles)
Weather: warm and sunny 27-60F
Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac
10,000 pilgrims (20,000 feet) walked Chemin de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle in 2008. So, if you find yourself trotting someplace without footprints chances are you are off course. Such was my case for five minutes today before I righted my route.
I walked through patches of melting snow and rivets of water with ice crystals before the 1,500 feet decent.